Alaska Marine Highway
Sept. 14-24, 2018
The drive from Fairbanks to Haines was another incredibly scenic drive- 640 miles. A couple of lovely campgrounds on large lakes. Mountains, glaciers, forests, taiga and very few vehicles.
Haines is where we got the ferry- the Alaska Marine Highway is a ferry system that has been designated a Scenic Byway! Many cruise ships go the same route and stop at many of the same ports that we are doing on the ferry. We have five stops: Juneau, Petersburg, Wrangell, Ketchikan and Prince Rupert. Because Rhylee must stay in the camper on the auto deck we have opted to get off for a few days at each port and not go beyond Prince Rupert because that leg is over a day long.
Haines- the sockeye salmon are running here, but slowly.
We saw a bear catching them in the river for her two cubs, but no people even fishing- so we went to Haines Fish Packing and bought fresh sockeye! The sow had an ear tag and radio collar, the cubs had ear tags.

Notice baby bear swimming towards Mama…the river pushed it quite a bit downstream.

Juneau- coho are running here and we fished to no avail, but the weather was sunny and warm and the locals at the dock were very friendly and chatty- they weren’t catching many either. On the dock you had to “fish” and just a 100 ft. away you could “snag” – meaning you could jerk you hook through the water and snag a fish any place on it’s body- even those folks weren’t hauling in too many. AND we could see them in the water- lots of them!
We visited another Glacier- Mendenhall and saw bighorn sheep on the mountain.
Petersburg- got on the ferry at 5pm, got off at 2am…Parked at the ferry terminal and slept a bit and then found our campground. Beautiful island, with a small fishing town of 3,000 people.
Wrangell- morning trip through the 20 mile Wrangell Narrows-

Yes, our 400ft. long ship navigated through these “pinball machine” markers.
an amazing narrow and twisty passage with over 70 aides for navigation. The ferry had to wait for the tide to come into port and we went down the narrows at half tide. 
Wrangell is another lovely small town with friendly people. Most of the boat tour operators were done for the season, however we found one that had to make a run up the Stikine River
to deliver some pipe to a summer house and was willing to take us along and show us some sights. 2+ hours on the river which was exceedingly low and shallow and watching Eric pick his away along was fun.
Petroglyphs…mostly covered at high tide, and historically unclear as to who, why and what they mean.
Side note- taking the ferry is awesome, however it is stressful…for us 🙂 we have to be at the ferry 2 hours before departure, get our boarding passes, and then wait, then turn off the propane, and load onto the ferry- sometimes backing down the ramp!, settle the dog in the camper, hook up the inverter to run the fridge. These ferry boats are big-400ft long, 7 decks. The departure times are all over the place and the length of trip are all different, sometimes arriving in the middle of the night, or the early morning. We are not used to “pressure” or reservations, or someone else’s timeline! LOL
Ketchikan- when we booked the ferry back in April our choices were 4 days here, or 7. We chose the 4. The RV park we are at is actually a Salmon Fish Camp with boat rentals, fish processing, dinning room, RV sites and hotel rooms and is connected to two other fish camps that land their fish here. Our first walk down to the dock let us see five bins full of Coho Salmon! The limit is 6 salmon per day per person and these anglers were trying to max their catch to have the fish processed and frozen to take home- some of them take home over 300lbs of salmon!
The weather has been sunny and in the 50s for the past 2 weeks, and so on the chance that the weather would hold we reserved a boat for the next day. They set us up with gear, bait and information as to where to go to fish- 25 miles up Clover Passage and Behm Canal. Within minutes of getting both rods set out- one used a down rigger which took a learning curve to figure out- we had two Cohos on! We landed one and lost the other.
And then we trolled for the next several hours without a bite. Of the 20 or so boats in the area, we only saw one fish caught every half hour or so…It was just lovely to be out on the ocean on a sunny, calm day- this island area is reminiscent of Penobscot Bay however 95% of it is protected temperate rain forest and their are mountains all around! 
Finally, Prince Rupert at 8pm but we still have to get off the ferry and through the border crossing and then to the campground…in the dark.

The paddlewheeler is owned and operated by the 4th generation of the same family that came to Fairbanks for the goldrush- to move cargo on the river- in 1898. In the 50s the next generation started the tourist trip side of things. We learned so much about the area, Fairbanks, the Athabascan natives (many of the crew have Athabascan heritage).
– related to caribor, but not the same- reindeer are considered domesticated and can be kept, while caribou may not be.
spent time telling us about his dogs, his more famous wife Susan Butcher- won the Iditarod 4 times- with her famous dog Granite, and gave us a demonstration of mushing.
and talked to us through the two way radio.
– Clare caught them here in Alaska in 1965 and so was thrilled to be able to catch them again. We were at 48 mile pond, it was warm and sunny and the fish were jumping. One dry fly that we had worked and we were able to land 7, enough for dinner, as these guys are rather small. A lovely day that provided us with a yummy dinner.
And above that? well, it is only what becomes you in this truly desolate remote area of Alaska. We decided to take the camper as far as Coldfoot, and then drive just the truck up through Atigan Pass as far as the beginning of the North Slope and the artic tundra.
Stopped in Delta Junction the “end” of the Alaska Highway, which we started weeks ago in Dawson Creek, BC
To go from the park entrance to Kantishna is 92 miles and takes 12 hours round trip! Staying at Tek Campground cut 3 hours off trips further into the park. Even so, since Rhylee had to stay in the camper, we limited ourselves to Eielsen Visitor Center at mile 66- about a 5 hour roundtrip.
Moose and
Another day, a very large, healthy male was wandering along a river and decided to lay down in the river to cool off a bit- it was sunny and maybe 55 degrees that day.
decided to run down from the plains to the bus, along the bus, in front of the bus and then down the other side of the bus.
including lots of flowers still in bloom, berries- including wild blueberries!- and shrubs and tundra plants were very unique to see and admire.
It is majestic!



Hope, Alaska is just a bit off the beaten path on the Kenai Peninsula and the Turnagin Arm- (a salt water basin with a tidal bore). Hope- population about 125 claiming year round residency (but probably not many here in the dead of winter). A couple of campgrounds, restaurants and Salmon fishing where Resurrection Creek enters the ocean. “Combat” fishing as it is known in Alaska- shoulder to shoulder along the water, waders on, in 3 feet of fast moving water. No “snagging” here, single hook that you hope will enter a pink salmon’s mouth…we did not participate for oh so many reasons, however we did talk to a couple of anglers- one from New Jersey that comes up every year to catch salmon, freeze them and take them home and the other a Kenai native who’s family runs a gold mine with mining trips, a fishing charter business and a fish processing business. Local Halibut for dinner at the cafe, where we discovered one of the cook’s was from Peak’s Island, Maine!
No fish for us, but we did spend about 15 minutes watching a 2yo brown bear (aka grizzly) sun it self 100ft across the river!

well it is Worthington Glacier about 2 miles away.
